Tasting Menu in Kathmandu I’ve had my fair share of tasting menus in this life, from solemnly plated morsels in Paris to architectural salads in New York. But I confess I did not expect to encounter such refined culinary delights in Nepal. Today, Gillian — birthday queen and the reason I’m here — organized a… Continue reading Fine dining in Nepal

Kathmandu I was last here about 34 years ago, when my ex and I travelled overland from Lhasa. Those two months remain the best journey of my life. The final stretch in China had no public transport, so we stuck out our thumbs and hitched rides. One truck driver kindly let us on. Only later,… Continue reading Kathmandu

Lanzhou Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu province, probably doesn’t rank high on most tourist itineraries, but I have to say it turned out to be a delightful city. After sampling the famous food street, we – my daughters and I – strolled across the Zhongshan Bridge, proudly known as the “First Bridge of the Yellow… Continue reading Lanzhou

During our short tour of China, I favoured Labrang Monastery, a spiritual place in southern Gansu. My daughters, however, had more earthly priorities: Lanzhou. To be precise, a food street smack in the city center, right by the Yellow River. I had always believed southerners knew best how to eat. Perhaps I was wrong, or… Continue reading A food street in Lanzhou

In recent years, a new craze has swept through China’s tourist spots: dressing up in traditional costumes and posing dramatically against famous landmarks. The other day, my daughters decided to join the fun at the Confucius Temple 夫子庙, and what a performance it turned out to be. The operation began at 4:30 p.m. in a… Continue reading A new trend

Qianmen Last night, I arrived in Beijing from Nanjing and stayed at a courtyard hotel near Qianmen, an area I’ve never known intimately. As I emerged from the subway station, the two magnificent towers—the Gate Tower and the Arrow Tower—rose before me, bathed in golden light. For a moment I stood still, taking in their… Continue reading Qianmen

A Hot Pot Restaurant with Chinese Characteristics It could only happen in China. Haidilao—literally “scooping from the bottom of the sea”—is a wildly successful hot pot chain that has turned dinner into a full-blown variety show. The food is excellent, but that’s only half the story. While waiting for a table, you’re offered free drinks,… Continue reading Haidilao

Red Flags Over China In recent years, China has stepped up its patriotic education campaign, which includes the mandatory display of national flags during public holidays. The result? At this time of year, red flags are everywhere. They flutter from office buildings, sprout from residential compounds, line the highways, and dangle from e-bikes. Step into… Continue reading Red flags over China

My Former Rocket Factory My former military factory once played a part in China’s modernization drive. It was founded in 1865 by Li Hongzhang, a prominent statesman, as part of the Self-Strengthening Movement. Today, it has been transformed into the 1865 Creative Park. While some key sectors remain, other parts, including my former work unit… Continue reading My rocket factory

Nanjing Massacre Museum As a Nanjing native, I have visited the museum many times. Today, I made a point of taking my daughters there, hoping to deepen their understanding of a defining event in the history of our city. Being a national holiday, the crowds were immense, some visitors carrying white chrysanthemums as a tribute.… Continue reading The Rape of Nanjing